How to Lengthen or Shorten Pants in Sewing?

In this article, we will detail how to modify the length of pants. Poesis sewing patterns are created using a stature of 163 cm. Far from being standard, this size can be adjusted on the paper pattern to fit your own measurements.

It’s good to remember that the pants pattern is the most challenging to standardize. It is highly recommended to make a toile (test garment) before sewing your precious fabric to avoid surprises and to be able to adjust your paper pattern in the meantime 🙂

To start, take your leg measurement. Measure from the crotch to the floor. The JOAN pants pattern is based on a leg measurement of 80 cm. The finished pants leg length is 74 cm (inseam to bottom of the pants).

Once you have this measurement in mind and you’ve taken your own measurement, determine the number of centimeters you want to add or remove.

If it’s about 1 to 2 cm, or even 3 cm, you can shorten or lengthen at the hem. As a reminder, the hem measurement for the JOAN pants is 4 cm.

If it’s more than 3 cm, it’s better to adjust the paper pattern to avoid distorting the pattern.

• To shorten the JOAN pants leg length by more than 3 cm:

Take the length to remove and divide it by two. (Example: -3 cm / 2 = 1.5 cm). On the front leg paper pattern, draw a line parallel above and below the line indicated on the pattern at your length divided by two. In our example, we will draw a line 1.5 cm above and 1.5 cm below the line indicated on the pattern. Do the same on the back leg paper pattern. Fold your pattern to align the two lines together. Tape the upper and lower parts of the newly created legs.

• To lengthen the JOAN pants leg length by more than 3 cm:

Take the length to add and divide it by two. (Example: +3 cm / 2 = 1.5 cm). On the front leg paper pattern, draw a line parallel above and below the line indicated on the pattern at your length divided by two. In our example, we will draw a line 1.5 cm above and 1.5 cm below the line indicated on the pattern. Cut the excess paper. Add a blank sheet of paper under your two leg pieces. Position your parallel leg pieces with a total length to be added. Tape the upper and lower parts of the legs on the blank page and re-cut your paper pattern. Do the same on the back leg paper pattern.